The day following the climb I fully realized all my aches and sores but felt nothing but optimism looking ahead, despite the obviously poor weather that was continuing. My wish was granted as I passed the tablelands that I didn't want to see it by having a cloud of fog covering it. That would have been dumber to descend in by far. As with the previous day I want a real damn meal for the first time in awhile, so I start scouting for a homestyle place. I drive right past one and try and deciede if I should flip around, feeling stupid as I always do. The place kinda looks like a shack, but humble. I deciede I can't keep driving each time I accidentally pass something that might be good, and I don't regret it. The serving was prompt, the lady was nice, and the food was amazing. It was called the hearty breakfeast meal and it delivered on its promises with two pieces of toast, two eggs and a slab of cooked ham. If food could make me elicit tears, I would have been bawling my eyes out at this point. With a really nice green tea and at nearly half the price as that shitty meal I had at pizza delight the day prior. Even though the weather continued to frown on me I felt today was a good day and it didn't matter how many weeks it rained. I decieded since I wanted a sunny day for Gros Morne which was at best days away that I would head north to some meadows near the tip of Newfoundland, taking my time to do so.
It was another destination that I hadn't originally set out to do, but I was hoping that driving up the oceanfront I would find more favourable weather. I was driving through the rain for awhile but I pulled into a boat launch area that just had me in it and read for awhile. The rain would stop and continue at random intervals, but I didn't let it bother me. I decieded also I was going to jump in the water because sitting in my vehicle for so many days makes you feel muggy. My dad warned against salt water making your skin itch when it dries, I tried to think back to vacations but remembered that nearly any time I was in the ocean I was almost in a pool twenty minutes later so I wasn't sure. The idea of itching like crazy with no fresh water to rinse was less than appealing. I had already felt the water as I was preparing to jump off the ledge of the dock at the launch, around ten feet in the air. Feeling it had been a mistake because it made me apprehensive. The wind was cold with slight spitting in the air, and unlike the cold waters during the BC trip, this swim would not be reinforced after by a warm breeze. I did a slight jog up, hesitated and jumped in anyways, whimpering and making noises in protest to my own choice before I even jumped. Yeah, that was cold. It did almost nothing for my hair either, I even went to shallower waters after trying to wash it out but to no use worth mentioning. Afterwards, though the water lacked effectiveness I didn't get itchy and felt at least a bit cleaner than before. So I continued on.
I was getting pretty tired of reading and the muggyness of a vehicle not in use. As I drove some clouds were parting ways, and by the time I reached a town called Rocky Harbour things were looking pretty nice. I took a stroll down a beach I found, jumping from big rocks to others, with my towel on my bag to dry it a bit. I brought my binoculars as well because other short walks often had me see birds that would be gone any time I doubled back for them, and so far the weather hadn't been cooperative for birding purposes. The walk was nice, I felt my spirit rise a bit with the sun having its way on the earth again and the walk didn't prove strenuous for my still recovering legs. Walking back I noticed a bird flying over the water. It was immediately white but I learned a short lesson from birding with Scott to never assume a white bird in flight is a seagull so I lifted my binoculars anyways. I thought from a distance that the wing movements were too whispy and I was right. It turned out to be a common tern, it was scanning the water ten feet below it but I was caught off guard as it seemed to lose control and do a backflip into the water. Except it kept doing it over and over times after that. Fighting against the ocean wind it lacks much grace and doesn't always flip, but when forced by a gust will go with it till the dive. I was confused at first but realized the bird could keep his eye on the fish below if he cocked his head to the side as he flipped, which he always did. The whole act was less than graceful but very interesting to watch, even through multiple failed attempts.I decieded to eat after and headed for a random restaurant in town. The waitress who greeted me was the most painfully cute girl I've seen since I don't know when. She had bangs down on one side of her face with a ponytail on the back of her head with dirty red hair that was slightly unkempt. She had a honest warm smile. I was a little sadder when another girl started serving me, but this was the kind of cuteness you tried to put out of your mind that made it ever more prevalent. As I was getting my receipt from the other girl who served me the girl from before was checking around the corner for something or other. I left the fear of her seeing my eyes directly for the thrill of being able to look into hers, as much as I tried to stop myself, and gave a honest smile that felt stupid. It was a positive response as she smiled and looked back, broke contact and looked again as I continued. I don't think I've ever done that before, its been long since I've seen anyone I'd bother with doing that either though I suppose. It feels vulnerable and lame but it felt good more so, maybe I'll be more prepared for it in the future. After I play music on the beach, sitting on top of my guitar case as the sun set with people walking by. I can't help but to as always feel a little out of place between old and young couples and families. But I have my music too, which they lack. As I drive out of town the weather is still nice and I'm driving past many short folds of land and rock before the ocean, I randomly see Katherine Chabot on my ipod list and listen to her talents. Another day is passed, I cast in early hoping to wake up late, the days keep promising rain, I just want to continue this trip.

I wake up to rain as expected, I manage to stay in my vehicle late by continuing to read and actually end up finishing the book. And that means there's only one book to go, which means I'll have less means of killing time. Crap. I deciede I'll go the full length north today to the meadow provincial park near st Anthonys, hoping the weather will clear again. The mountains I saw dark outlines of last night are covered by overcast and fog, I grow slightly more disappointed over the sights I'm continuing to miss. I'd decieded by now I'd use a day at a hotel to etch out a day a bit easier between now and when Gros Morne will be worth venturing. My vehicle feels muggy and crowded and smellier by the day. I stop by a beach that's supposed to have a nice view and am greeted by having no vision outside of sixty feet of fog. I feel a little disgruntled and just continue back to the road. I feel tired, I get more sick of each sight I can't see because untimely weather and I honestly consider the pros and cons of leaving now. I head further north, I'm not sure if that tingle of colour in the cloud is my imagination playing tricks on me or if the day can end up well. I'm tempted to use a hotel this day just to pass time and relax for when I'll need my muscles, I almost stop at a inn and eat because I'm hungry but the words pizza delight burn deep holes into my anger as I see them. Not another one of these days again. I sit in a restaurant far from that place a time later, sure that I will pick this day for my get out free card but as I eat the clouds part. I drive further to the north where vikings landed so many years ago, and as with the day before the clouds part ways.


It's not a perfect day by far, but I'm glad for what I am getting on days where there was supposed to be nothing but rain. I head down a well constructed boardwalk at the provincial park after sharing some words with people that worked there about what its like. I step off the beaten path briefly before a bird starts harassing me with its cries. It's annoying as all get out, but the bird continues to perch at least no less than twenty feet from me, thinking himself intimidating. Christ, I've been here for ten minutes and can't figure out what he is as he continues to chirp as a single black fly buzzes around the hood I'm using to shield myself. As with the tern I found the day before I'm having problems with distinct features, my Ontario bird book was more narrow in its selection, north america is a bit larger. It's a sandpiper for sure, the long legs and long bill say that. But it's a little big for a sandpiper. It doesn't specifically match anything by picture alone so I walk away keeping what I saw in mind. I find the closest relatives, the greater and less yellow legs, the range and the descriptions speak volumes where I need to start reading. The pictures only show yellow legs but say they can range to orange which was the missing feature. At this point I go back to see if I can use the same method to find out if the tern was actually a tern or a rarer gull as I didn't have a good look. Further down the path I hear a bird in the bush next to me not more than five feet. I start Scott's patented psshing method I'm convinced won't work but the circumstances match how he used it subtly, with shorter calls and longer ones the one time I birded with him and I surprise myself as it actually works. A alarmed bird comes up and checks around for an extended time looking around for the bird in need as he chirps in response. To see if if it wasn't a fluke I wait till hes leaving and duck under the bush so he can't see me and do it again and he comes closer again. I run into a old friend from Ontario, a blackpoll warbler. The rest of the walk is beautiful as promised. I feel ashamed I was going to leave but realize the bad weather is still to return, but choose to enjoy this moment over worry about it. I come around the full trail and check out some historic sites that must have had a beautiful view in their time and am upset to find the vistor centre is locked. It's around 7:30 with lots of daylight to burn but the path is designed with no minute workaround the building if they are closed. Not wanting to walk a full hour to my vehicle that's only two hundered meters away I start looking to see if there's a less conventional way over the railing and around the building. The janitor catches me looking with decisiveness and quickly lets me through, I feel bad for even considering it and thank him a ton. I begin the drive back to where I started in the morning. Daylight falls, the paths narrows and winds and jumps into straights and as the space infront of me becomes black outside of my headlights I stare into myself. The music has been off for awhile, I try to find answers in myself and answer honestly but find it difficult. I end up as the night ends where I started in the morning. I grow less patient on the weather with each day.
I wake up, feels kinda early to be up. Oh crap. Crap, crap, crap, crap. Shiiiiiittttt, I start muscling my way to the front of my vehicle and awkwardly fitting on the first pair of pants I find. Oh poooooop. I want to put on shoes but there's no time, sandals will have to do. Shit, shit, shit, shit, shit, shiiiit. I waddle into the brush with toilet paper, there's no time to dig a hole even if I had a tool for it. I cant illustrate for you what happens next but I hope I left enough hints for it lest you be braindead. Rule #1 to anyone who ever so tries to emulate this trip ever, having to poop can happen when you least expect it to so always park somewhere at night where you are insured for the morning. Since I don't poop and squat often I let my piss flow accidentally, not thinking about it and it immediately gets on my pants before I can stop myself. Ah piss. That's the line for having to go to the laundrymat.The morning weather is nice but I know it isn't destined to last. I can only drive a short distance before passing Gros Morne, I deciede I'll use my hotel day. I feel guilty overall, I compare myself to the BC trip and feel weak having used no hotels then. But the weather then hadn't been so cruel to me. I start calling myself piss pants in my mind, I try alternatives as getting sea water to overpower it or soap, but I'm apparently more pungent so I return to where I have photographic memory of a laundromat sign in rocky harbour. It goes surprisingly well, I'm twenty two and have never done my laundry before this but nothing goes wrong. My mommy loves me is why I have never done it. But then again, Nick has done his own before and his mom loves him.. I think.. Maybe she beats him when nobody is looking(note to self:investigate further).
Anyways I have some good conversations with a man and woman from Montreal with a playful dog. She jumps between her native asian language and french and english all at once so I can rarely understand her but they are nice. Almost all of today is rain except for the immediate morning, I get in the hotel early and once again manage a room without reservation. I realize in the empty time between waiting for my room at three that its been one week since I left. Time flows oddly, I feel great tackling new places and beautiful sights but feel most alone when I am places where people are gathered, as if they remind me I am alone. All conversations either start with or move to the fact that I'm doing this trip alone. Some see strength in me for that and others hold remorse, and I become unsure how to feel about it. I'm more talkative with strangers than ever, I'm not sure if that's of the quality of the people here or my need to have some communication. But everyone's friendly and the conversations are natural so I don't question it. The bartender at this hotel is nice, almost looks like a older version of me, no experience in too much of anything, just moves different places and works, and he mixes a half decent drink too. I talk with him at length when the bar is empty, when I return I have some more conversations with random people. So many damn travelers, they all seem so old and I feel so out of place. An old man I'm talking to asks where my wife is and I almost spit out my drink. But they are good people. Today it rains heavy, I'm glad I picked today to sleep here, I'm glad I've had the time to recover for a hike, but I don't know how many more days of rain I can take. At worst, my stubbornness will have me and I'll hike Gros Morne in the heaviest rain if need be, I feel I grow anxious by sitting still too long. Even if it means that I have to remember a great place as a husk and struggle compared to what it should be in my mind. I can still be proud I did it then.
































